Three counties in three days

When I began my pilgrimage at the start of May, it felt like the NW Highlands had barely slipped into spring, with the heather only just starting to show signs of green, daffodils still growing in many gardens, and this walker needing three, sometimes four layers of clothing.  Jump forward ten weeks, the breeze is welcomed rather than wished away, there's the extra weight of more water in the rucksack, and suncream and sunhat are the order of the day.

Amidst the sunny weather, I've enjoyed walking over the last three days, starting with rural areas of Nottinghamshire, where I picked up my walk on Wednesday morning at Southwell Minster, after taking time for morning prayers in one of the side chapels there, and taking a fuller look around. I went on a school trip there in the 1970s but can't remember whether I've been since.  Either way, amongst plenty of other features, the windows above the west door caught my eye.  Installed in the 1990s, they depict angels, the lower seven showing acts of creation, above which are smaller pairs of worshipping angels holding books, trumpets, a heart, a pipe organ, and stringed instruments.

Having left Southwell mid-morning, the rest of the day also set the scene the two days which followed, continuing to walk through the farmland in the Trent Valley, mostly arable but with some pasture.

A highlight of Wednesday was a period walking with sailing friends and partners alongside the Trent, before heading towards Bingham where we enjoyed afternoon tea at the end of a warm afternoon before heading off for a long evening of conversation over our evening meal.

Thursday morning allowed time for a quick look around Bingham's market before heading south into Leicestershire and the Wolds which lie to the north of Melton Mowbray, my destination for the day, once again being warmly hosted by a Methodist Church colleague.

I was surprised to find a stretch of disused and overgrown canal en route to Melton: it turns out that its part of the Grantham canal, which ran 33 miles from Grantham through 18 locks to West Bridgford, where it joined the Trent, built primarily for the transportation of coal.

Having left Melton Mowbray first thing on Friday, I thoroughly enjoyed the route to Uppingham, crossing into Rutland in the early afternoon. The Wolds provide gentle rolling hills, interwoven with both arable and grazing land, forming a lovely environment for walking, complemented with bright conditions with a welcome cooling breeze.

Not everything was quite perfect, with a further encounter of the bovine kind once, thankfully both farmer and vet were on hand to help move this herd onwards to allow me through the gate!

Shortly thereafter, Uppingham came into view: in common with Sedbergh a couple of weeks ago, a town influenced by the school whose buildings take up a significant part of the centre.

With just two weeks planned walking left now, it's difficult not to think ahead a bit, but I hope that I don't forget that there's almost 200miles still to go, substantial enough despite the distance already covered.

Talking of weight

Before leaving friends in Inverness, way back at the end of April, I weighed myself.  Having done the same yesterday, I'm still the same weight, testament to either following the advice 'Drink plenty, eat plenty, look after your feet' or the excellent hospitality of friends and colleagues alike!

On a related note, since dropping off the tent and other camping items (stove, gas, pan, sleeping mat), my rucksack weighs 15kg or so, including packed lunch and sufficient water for a day's walk, plus waterproofs, spare clothing, toiletries/towel,  maps, phones/tracker/charger and maps for a few days ahead.  I was therefore carrying around 23kg when in Scotland, not only the camping gear extra but also food for evening and breakfast.  I'm certainly pleased not to be carrying that in the current spell of hotter weather.

Talking of which, just to assure you that I am keeping a close eye on the forecast, and thinking that I will set off much earlier than usual on the forecast hotter days to avoid as much of the heat as possible.

Early start

The weather forecast for Monday included temperatures possibly 30°C or even higher, so I set off just after 6.30am to allow time for a slower paced walk, and potentially time to stop in the middle of the day if needed.  The early start didn't prevent a reflective moment to the day.

Dad's gate

If you follow me on Facebook then you'll be familiar with this view as it's been my cover photo on several occasions.  It's taken from the hamlet of Summerley, east of Coal Aston where I grew up, by a gate on the Dronfield 2000 Rotary Walk, dedicated to Dad who died in December 1999.

In light of my sabbatical and its sense of stepping back, there's much in these words which resonate with its wider purpose too.  Mum and my sister Yvonne started the day with me, reading these words once more before walking together to Apperknowle Methodist Church where we prayed before I set off fowards Chesterfield.

En route very soon was Revolution House, a thatched cottage in Old Whittington, home to a plot to overthrow James II in 1688, led by three local noblemen.

Having threaded my way through several backstreets, the next highlight of the morning was walking alongside the Chesterfield canal on the Cuckoo Way which runs the full length of the canal from its junction with the River Trent.  Although in water for nearly all its length, the Chesterfield end of the canal is disconnected from the eastern part because of a collapsed tunnel near Killamarsh, something the Chesterfield Canal Trust is working hard to restore.   Although I lived close to Chesterfield for some time, I think this is the first time I've walked along the canal, including a different view of Chesterfield Parish Church with its crooked spire.

A fair bit of the rest of the day was through some former colliery villages between Chesterfield and Mansfield to the southeast, including a stretch of paths linked as the Five Pits Trail, leading over the M1 motorway.

Over the past couple of weeks, it's been interesting to see how much arable crops have changed, partly as I've moved south, partly with warmer weather.  The long wet grass of a fortnight ago is now more likely to be getting cut for haymaking, and paths are leading across ripening crops of wheat, barley and vegetables.

Warmly welcomed

At the end of a steady paced walk in the heat of the day, it was good to arrive at the home of friends and colleagues, Nicola and Chris.

After a good night's rest, Tuesday morning dawned a little cooler.  The day itself still felt quite sultry as I headed east from Kirkby-in-Ashfield towards the minster town of Southwell.

Somewhat unexpectedly, I came across the highest point in the Nottinghamshire before joining the Robin Hood Way which took me through some areas of woodland (a reminder that much of the area has its links to Sherwood Forest), several fields of ripening crops and a stretch of disused railway line, which led into Southwell itself and the stunning architecture of the minster.

Once again, my hosts overnight are colleagues, Richard and Becca.  Becca works for All We Can, the charity I'm supporting on my way.  Do click here after 1.17pm on Wednesday (13 July) where you should see an interview about my pilgrimage.

Fundraising and tracker links

I've already met a number of people en route who have asked whether I am fundraising during my walk. If you are one of those I've met, thank you for your support and interest.

The main reason I'm walking is for a sabbatical, but I'd be pleased for you to make a donation to All We Can, an international development and relief organisation.

Focused on serving the world’s most marginalised communities, All We Can is rooted in the Christian faith and has served some of the most marginalised communities on earth for the last eight decades. It has developed a reputation for doing development differently – pioneering sustainable, locally-owned solutions

If you feel able to make even a small donation, please click here

If you want to keep track of my progress, please click here 

Thank you

Patrick 

Homeward bound

I'm currently at home in Bristol for the weekend for what should be my last break before finishing my pilgrimage.  The few days' break also allows me to support our youngest daughter who will be the soloist in a concert this evening with a local orchestra.  Once that's done, I'll be heading back to the East Midlands tomorrow, aiming to be in London by this time in two weeks.

Dales and valleys

I had a gentler start to Wednesday, enjoying a couple of hours relaxation before heading east in the direction of Barnsley.  I imagine most wouldn't associate this area with as part of the Yorkshire Dales but the landscape and village names still echo that area.  A constant landmark through my 4-5 hours of walking was the TV and radio transmitter on Emley Moor, which I've discovered is the tallest freestanding structure in the UK, and a Grade II listed building.

After being predominantly in a built-up areas as I crossed through Bradford on Tuesday, it was nice to be surrounded by ripening fields of arable crops and the seemingly ever present sheep, as I wandered through 'Last of the Summer Wine' country, following parts of Transpennine Trail which cross this area (and part of my following day's walk too) which I found to be very well way-marked.

Talking of way-marking, anyone used to walking in rural areas will probably have encountered more than the odd field where it's tricky to find the route across or round.  I've certainly not been immune from that, particularly in the last couple of weeks since I crossed the border into England.  However, no doubt about where to go across this ripening wheat field:

Home territory

Thursday began with more walking on the Transpennine Trail, walking along the Upper Don Trail which also forms a link between the edge of the Peak District into Sheffield coming from the NW of the city.  One thing that's often said about Sheffield is that green space is never too far away - the following image of Grenoside is taken about one and half miles from the city centre, not far from Hillsborough football stadium, home to Sheffield Wednesday.

Once in the City Centre, I paid a visit to Paradise Square with its Georgian architecture, where John Wesley preached on 15 July 1779, to "the largest congregation I ever saw on a week day," recorded on a commemorative plaque:

I met my sister in nearby Sheffield Cathedral, where we were shown the Chapter House which includes a stained glass window depicting Wesley's preaching in Paradise Square (bottom left in the first of these images).  After a pause for prayer, we set off to walk through the south of Sheffield, taking in two of the city's parks (and, needless to say, a cuppa) before heading to Coal Aston where we grew up, and where a small reception committee was waiting!

We popped into both the Methodist Church ('Bottom chapel') and the Wesleyan Reform Church ('Top chapel') where we said prayers, as I been doing at each church I've passed en route before reaching home with the following view over towards Chesterfield and beyond - part of my route after the weekend.

Looking ahead

All being well, I will be in London a fortnight today, before heading to Dover for the last few days.  Although there's still a couple of hundred miles of walking, suddenly it feels like the end is in sight.  Having returned to Bristol at lunchtime yesterday, one job I completed was sending off the final parcels of maps to collect and use en route over the coming three weeks.  Highlands, islands, fells and dales are now largely behind, but like many of the places I've already walked through, there are plenty of unfamiliar spots to come.

p.s. in other news, I've picked up the fourth blister of the trip.  Thankfully small, hoping that it will heal whilst I am taking a break.

Dales with a difference

After a weekend break at home, I returned to Keighley on Monday morning by train, before continuing eastwards along the Leeds and Liverpool canal towards Baildon (north of Bradford) where I spent the night.

For the first hour or so of walking, I was joined by Karen, a friend from Bath MethSoc days, who lives locally.  Again, it's been a number of years since we last met so plenty to catch up with.

Jonathan and Jocelyn, my hosts for the night, met us en route so it felt as if I was handed over into their care when Karen headed off for some work.  The three of us passed by Bingley Five Rise Locks, the steepest staircase locks, one of the 'seven wonders of the waterways,' closely followed by 'Bingley Three Rise Locks,' needless to say a staircase of three locks, next to which is the headquarters of Damart, well-known manufacturers of thermal clothing (think Long John's!).

Just a little way along is Saltaire Village, a model village named after its founder, Sir Titus Salt, and the River Aire.  In common with similar villages at Bournville (Cadbury) and Port Sunlight (Lever), Salt provided better quality housing for mill workers alongside local health, education and recreational facilities with the intention of building a better local community. Saltaire became a UNESCO World heritage site over twenty years ago, with much of the original architecture still in situ.  One significant change from the original set up is the introduction of a local wine bar (Salt having insisted on no public houses):

Three views

Following a relaxing evening and good night's rest, I set off in good time on Tuesday as I had a good stretch to cover to the outskirts of Holmfirth, my next stop. My walk took me along the remainder of Airedale and into Calderdale, occupied by the City of Bradford and neighbouring towns, so whilst the names are familiar, the landscape is somewhat different.  Nonetheless an enjoyable day's walk, including plenty of time in the countryside south of Bradford, following the Calderdale Way, weaving through the suburbs of Huddersfield, before arrival at the NE corner of Holmfirth where I was warmly greeted into a colleague's manse where I have been overnight.

.       Looking southwards towards Bradford 

        South of Bradford towards Brighouse

           Looking towards Holmfirth

Today's walk will take me into South Yorkshire, where I was born, and some familiar territory.  I'm looking forward to walking into Sheffield tomorrow, planning to follow the Transpennine Trail through the NW of the city, along the Upper Don Valley.

Three Day-les

I've really enjoyed the walking over the last three days, starting from Sedbergh to Burton-in-Lonsdale on Tuesday, on to Hellifield on Wednesday, thence to Keighley today (Thursday).  Each day's walk was more-or-less in Lonsdale, Ribblesdale and Airedale respectively, each with its own character.

I was joined by a longstanding friend for most of Tuesday, and it was good to be able to catch up over several hours, something we've not had the opportunity to do since before the pandemic.  He lives locally so was able to give a bit of running commentary on parts of our route.  Thankfully the rain kept off nearly all day, so one of my only challenges of the day was a further encounter of the bovine kind, albeit that the group I met was somewhat smaller than Sunday's (although Limousines, one of the breeds in the group, are well known for being skittish!)

Shortly after meeting this group of young bullocks, I also had a traverse a somewhat overgrown path, ending with several scratches and nettle stings:

Following a night in Burton-in-Lonsdale, the guest of family members of a colleague, on Tuesday I headed slightly south before heading towards Ribblesdale on minor country roads.  The constant highlight of the day was the view across Ribblesdale towards the Three Peaks of Ingleborough, Pen-y-ghent and Whernside.  I discovered this bench, looking at Ingleborough, but the panorama opened up shortly afterwards to feature all three.

My day ended with a 'short sharp shower' so was reasonably wet when I arrived in Hellifield to be met by another colleague who lives a few miles away in Settle where I spent the night before returning for my final day's walk before talking a weekend back home.

The walk through Airedale was very different, mostly along the towpath of the Leeds and Liverpool canal, winding its way southeastwards through Gargrave, Skipton and onto Keighley.  An easier day's walk in terms of the terrain and navigation, with plenty of time to chat with other walkers and towpath users.  One man was somewhat surprised with my reply 'Yes, of Britain,' to his 'Are you walking the full length?' (he meaning the 127.25 miles of the canal).

One other question I've been asked a number of times is whether I'd be following the Pennine Way during my pilgrimage.  In general, no, but I crossed its route as I walked through the picturesque village of Gargrave.  It's easy to agree with those who claim that the Leads and Liverpool runs through some of the most beautiful spots on the whole canal network.

Looking back towards Airedale from Keighley:

Looking back

More generally, I left Mallaig four weeks ago today.  It feels quite an accomplishment to have arrived in Keighley, with just over 500 miles walked in those four weeks.

Overall I've now walked just over 750 miles since Cape Wrath over 43 days on the move, so I'm averaging just over 17 miles a day (planned average was 15-16); for those who are interested, the total blister count is three!

Several people have asked me whether I am getting tired: whilst I am certainly weary at the end of each day, and certainly need to rest and re-fuel, I'm feeling in good shape physically and spiritually and don't feel particularly tired. I've been working on keeping well hydrated and nourished, equally aware of the spiritual element to my pilgrimage.

I've continued to stop for prayer at each church en route, going in where the building is open.  Yesterday I called in to the small churches in Keasden and nearby Eldroth within a relatively short period of time.  Not only within the buildings but during my walking, I've encountered a palpable sense of God's renewing and re-creating presence. The final few words of this meditation seem apt.

In the present moment

Hurry is an unpleasant thing in itself, but also very unpleasant for whoever is around it. Some people came into my room and rushed in and rushed out and even when they were there they were not there – they were in the moment ahead or the moment behind. Some people who came in just for a moment were all there, completely in that moment.

Live from day to day, just from day to day. If you do so, you worry less and live more richly. If you let yourself be absorbed completely, if you surrender completely to the moments as they pass, you live more richly those moments.

(Anne Morrow Lindbergh)

Betwixt and between

The majority of my walking since leaving Gretna on Friday morning has been close to the M74/M6 and the West Coast main railway line, in the corridor flanked by the Northern Pennines over to the east, the Cumbrian fells to the west.  I've had plenty of good views over to the east, but poor visibility westwards has meant only occasional fleeting glances of Blencathra and the other significant peaks of northern Cumbria.

      Northern Pennines in the distance

My hosts over the weekend, Catherine and Ian, joined me for the first hour of Sunday's walk, enjoying some hare spotting as we walked.  Once they'd looped back, I continued through Penrith, then into the Lowther valley, busy on a Sunday with plenty of walkers, increasingly so as I moved onto the Lowther Estate, where Sandy and I had our first holiday together 30 years ago in one of these cottages, a short distance away from Lowther castle:

The thick blanket of drizzle shrouding the Cumbrian fells slowly encroached on my route and the afternoon was largely wet   If that weren't enough, the last stretch of footpaths was across fields of knee length, very wet grass, reminiscent of We're going on a bear hunt, and amidst all that, a herd of young cattle decided to follow me through no fewer than three fields before congregating right next to the final stile on the edge of Shap (needless to say, no photo for that moment!).

Despite the rain, there was time to notice an overall change in my surroundings, the red sandstone of the area around Carlisle being replaced by the limestone walls typical of the Dales.

'It always rains in Shap'

After a round trip by car to my overnight accommodation, Monday morning in Shap started in a similar vein to Sunday.  Whilst I can only offer limited experience of the local weather, the conversation in the post office before I set off bemoaned another poor day of weather this summer.

Waterproofs on once more, the first couple of hours of Monday's walk climbed the hills to the east of Shap, following the route of the Coast to Coast walk established by Alfred Wainwright, best-known for his Pictorial Guides to the Lakeland Fells, describing the natural features, routes and views from the summits of over 200 Lakeland fells.  Certainly a popular choice on Monday as I shared a couple of hours walking to the small village of Orton with walkers from several places in Britain and from New York too.  Thankfully the rain started to clear and opened up some lovely views for us all.

The second half of the day took me through the Lune Valley, again following part of a Roman Road from Middleton to Low Borrowbridge - follow the link for quite a bit of information, including details of Fox's Pulpit, used by George Fox, founder of the Society of Friends.  The whole of the area around Sedbergh is rich in the early history of the Quaker movement.  

Just to assure you that it's not all been rain, here's a view southwards along the Lune Valley, a few miles north of Sedbergh where I stayed the night with a colleague from the Methodist Church.  Towards the end of my day's walk, my route started to move away from the railway and motorway and the surroundings were silent, excepting the running water.

And how blessed all those in whom you live, whose lives become roads you travel;

They wind through lonesome valleys, come upon brooks, discover cool springs and pools brimming with rain!

God-traveled, these roads curve up the mountain, and at the last turn—Zion! God in full view!

(Psalm 84 vv5-7 The Message)