After two days travelling from Bristol, including an overnight stop with friends near Inverness, I arrived safely at Durness yesterday evening. Following the train journey to Inverness, the last stage was by minibus through the Northern Highlands. The rain restricted some of the views outside, but there was plenty of conversation amongst a small group of fellow walkers all heading north.
The ferry which runs to Cape Wrath peninsula isn't now starting up until Monday, so new acquaintances Adam and Richard were replanning their itinerary for part of the Cape Wrath Trail, hopping off the bus early. Wolfgang and his brother, regular visitors from Germany, offered plenty of advice and all in all there was plenty of conversation at the back of the bus about the challenges of walking in the remote NW corner of Scotland.
Following stops to drop off others, often right on their doorsteps, I arrived at Smoo Youth Hostel where a warm welcome from Ted the Hostel Manager awaited. Formalities over, I enjoyed an evening meal, chatted a while then headed of to bed.
A reasonable night's sleep, breakfast and then a walk in the hills just to the South of Durness, enjoying some of the stillness and calm as I wandered up to the small loch which serves as a reservoir. Mindful of words from the hymn 'Be still my soul' I stopped a few times en route and soaked up a little of the stillness of the surroundings, glimpsing something of the change of rhythm which I hope lies ahead.
The opening words of the familiar Psalm 23 seem apt as I leave these reflections with you: 'The Lord is my shepherd, I shall not want. He makes me lie down in green pastures; he leads me beside still waters; he restores my soul. He leads me in right paths for his name’s sake.'
Assuming no further changes, I should make it over to the Cape Wrath peninsula tomorrow morning and 'start my walk proper.' To quote the title of Winston Churchill's book, it feels like
'The End of the Beginning' now that I'm in Durness and ready to go.
I wrote these words in the small chapel, waiting for the congregation to gather for Sunday worship. I was very warmly welcomed by Andrea and congregants ahead of a meaningful service, followed by conversation. I shall remember my encounter with them.
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