Water water everywhere!
Friday's walk followed the banks of the River Ayr upstream, following a well marked trail throughout. It's fair to say that I wasn't really up to taking in much of my surroundings as the predominant feature of the day was several hours of heavy rain (as forecast); in addition quite a few sections of the trail were waterlogged so keeping upright with feet as dry as possible was quite a feat. There were also a couple of landslips, around which diversions were in place (although the permanent nature of the signs for one suggested that the landslip was far from recent). By early afternoon I was wet, including socks and feet for the first time in the whole walk.
Conditions did improve in the mid-afternoon with 'a good drying wind' and I arrived at my campsite for the night almost dry.
Amidst the rain, I was able to visit Highland Mary's Monument, marking the traditional last meeting place of poet Robert Burns and Mary Campbell, known to posterity as 'Highland Mary'. Mary Campbell was perhaps the great love of Burns' life, although he was a man who liked to spread his favours around!
A construction of a different nature also towered above the River Ayr Trail towards the end of the day. I'd travelled over the Glenfinnan Viaduct whilst travelling from and to Mallaig, but the Ballochmyle Viaduct deserves a mention with its largest masonry arch in the UK. Unfortunately, a good view wasn't practical as you can see below.
After a good dry night, Saturday's walk continued with some of the Burns theme, seeing a statue or some reference to him in most of the villages I walked through on my route from Auckinleck to Sanquhar.
The villages were nearly all former coal mining communities, some still looking quite uncared for, and I'm unsure as to what employment in some of them followed the demise of coalmining. Nearly all had a memorial to those killed in mining accidents, some with quite lengthy lists of names. Sobering.
I was just starting to think about a possible place for camping for the night when I entered Kirkconnell, where the annual gala, complete with pipe band, parade and fair was in full swing.
In light of that, I finished the day in Sanquhar, where my route joins the Southern Upland Way. The town has many historical links, including those with the now ruined castle, but also to the Covenanters, members of a 17th-century Scottish religious and political movement, who supported a Presbyterian Church of Scotland, and the primacy of its leaders in religious affairs.
So to the Southern Upland Way, which I followed today and will again tomorrow across to Beattock. Grateful to Margaret, whose maps I'm using for this stretch, for all her notes which are added to the detail already there.
Really enjoyed this morning's climb up from Sanquhar, crossing a couple of valleys where it was completely silent, excepting the breeze. Stunning views as I approached Wanlockhead, on the right of this panorama, one of two former leadmining communities here.
Only a day or two ago, I was put in touch with someone who is part of the GBUltras running community who lives here. Having spoken to them about finding a possible wild-camping spot, I'm more than grateful to report that I have been warmly and completely welcomed into their home this evening. Another experience of the generosity of strangers - thank you Gareth and Carole for your hospitality and welcome.
On Father's Day I've had more than a few messages from my own children, likewise have thought much about my own Dad. He'd have loved this area with its mix of natural beauty and industrial archeology. He'd have loved walking around and learning about the local history.
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