Lighting up

There's certainly been a stark contrast in the weather conditions since I resumed walking on Thursday, two weeks to the day since my journey along the SE Coast of Skye.  The mostly grey skies of May have been replaced by deep blue, alongside which the rich browns of moor and mountain are increasingly green with heather in leaf.  Gorse yellow has been supplemented with lilac rhododendron in bloom.

The last three days walking have therefore mostly felt easier, starting with around 10 miles south from Mallaig, along a stretch of coast renowned for its silver sands, particularly in the entrance to Loch Morar (pictured here) but continuing for several miles, reminiscent of the views on the north coast when I was staying in Durness.

With the clearer conditions, views over to Skye were plentiful from my overnight campsite, a couple of miles inland (and the only one with any space) just north of Arisaig.

I set off early on Saturday, with a longer stretch ahead, around 20 miles to Glenuig, a small village where I'd imagined that I might be the only person wild-camping.  Nothing could have been further from the truth, with about a dozen of us all in small tents squeezed into a small patch near both the beach and the community centre - cyclists, kayakers, motorbikers and a couple of walkers.  The community centre is well set up with loos and showers available for a modest fee, equally a community-run shop as well as a busy hotel/pub.  All in all a great place to stop, with view to boot. 

 

It was just what I needed after a difficult afternoon when I struggled a bit with the heat,  despite being well hydrated, equally well fed having been given a large piece of fruit cake by a group of passing cyclists who I passed whilst they were having a stop.  The late morning had been equally warm, but the cooling wind disappeared in the afternoon, making a difference.

Today's walk onwards to Acharacle was thankfully straightforward, through Moidart with its connections with Bonnie Prince Charlie, equally some stunning views of the native oak forest.  I arrived just after lunchtime, my pack up shared with a fellow walker who I came across in a lay-by as we crossed over into Glen Shiel.

(pictured is the site of the Seven Men of Moidart, sevven beech trees planted in memory of the seven companions who landed with Bonnie Prince Charlie at Loch nan Uamh on 25 July 1745. Not all the seven trees have survived, with replacements nearby).  Not sure if the camera has done justice to the deep blue of the sky alongside the verdant greens surrounding the whole area, a SSSI.

Looking ahead, I plan to be in Strontian tomorrow, where there's a small hostel, before heading onwards towards Oban where I hope to be mid-week.