No cuckoo today

One of the first sounds I heard amidst the peace and tranquility of the Cape Wrath peninsula was the distinctive call of a cuckoo. I've heard one every day that I've been on the move, until today. I imagine that reflects a subtle change in landscape during my route from my overnight stop at Barcaldine, partly through grazing land, the rest alongside the busy Fort William to Oban road.  The road is well used by cyclists, so there's a separated cycle-footpath, part of the Caledonia Way, running from Oban to Inverness (National Cycle Route 78), which in the area immediately north of Oban and Connel, mostly follows a disused railway line.  With the excellent signage, my walk into Oban went smoothly, despite the rain which made an unwanted return.

The route crosses Loch Etive at Connel Bridge, originally just a railway bridge, then dual purpose, now just with road traffic.  It's currently under repair, and in order to maintain my safety whilst walking across, the traffic was held in both directions!

During my extended walk on Tuesday (see below) I'd had to eat most of my provisions for today (Wednesday) in order to keep going for a few more hours.  Whilst talking last night with some neighbouring campers about the day's events, I was generously offered a packed lunch - thank you Nicky and Garry, equally Cathy for the cake - once more the generosity of strangers taking me by surprise.

So, to Tuesday!  The first stop of the day was in Ballachulish for provisions, and I also enjoyed a coffee in the Quarry Visitor Centre which also hosts local information.  Well worth a look.  I had chosen to walk through Glen Creran, a straightforward route more or less direct to Barcaldine where I planned to camp. 

All well and good until I came across a diversion due to forestry work.  Oh well, but by mid-afternoon I'd covered around 15 miles (fine) but with about 14 to go (not fine).  I considered stopping where I was, but that would have left a subsequent long walk to Oban.  Either way, it had to be done.

With plenty of water with me, food and snacks, and a straightforward and mostly flat route along NCN78, I decided to continue, finally arriving at the campsite almost 12 hours after setting off.  The smile in the following is genuine, I was pleased to have arrived; whilst understandably tired at the end of almost 30miles on foot, I felt OK, testament to the advice of many to keep hydrated and well-fed.  I do have the second blister of the whole trip to show for my efforts.

In one sense, I will remember that for the physical challenge of the walk, but over the past few days I've appreciated more and more of the countryside through which I'm passing.  On Sunday, Monday and Tuesday, I've walked alongside a different loch each day, through a different glen, passed the source of a different river and much more.  In parallel to those larger scale features, the almost imperceptible early white buds of heather have also begun to show;  and whilst we're talking about small things, the midges are definitely out!

Milestones

Tuesday was my 22nd day on the move, assuming that my itinerary holds to the 66 planned walking days, that means I'm a third of the way through.  I've also crossed into Argyll and Bute, out of the Highlands.  Although I am far from finished with the West Coast, the maps which I posted to Oban where I'm now staying include ones which cover the Firth of Clyde where I hope to be in a week's time.

A day off now, space to enjoy Oban, before heading further east.